Removing the carbon on my turbo - accessing the turbo.
This is a brilliant forum i have learned loads already.
I am going to try and clean my turbo vanes as this seems the natural thing to do before i have to replace the whole turbo.
Discovery 3 tdv6 2005 model.
Will i be able to access the turbo sufficiently to use the Innotech turbo cleaning products or do i have to remove the unit and how do i do that.
has any one used normal oven cleaner before and does it work. there are loads of google results about this cheaper way of de-carbonising the variable vanes.
cheers!!
13th Feb 2011 10:46 pm
nigel207
Member Since: 26 Mar 2009
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 1344
I had to have a new turbo on my 2005 D3 a few months ago. I got the warning "engine system failure" and then noticed a lack of assistance from the turbo. When I took it to my local Independent (Cavendish Motors, Storforth Lane, Chesterfield) it was confirmed that it was the turbo. They were quite honest and said that LR have been stuffed by the manufacturers because they could strip the things down and clean them (as you rightly say, the problem seems to lie with the vanes getting "gunged" up and sticking), but the problem comes when they're re-assembled and fitted because the manufacturer won't release the software for the electronics.
Fortunately mine was covered under the after market warranty I thought long and hard about buying!
14th Feb 2011 1:58 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72787
Nigel welcome to CFT!! Mine's being removed at the mo for a turbo change. Which warranty did you have??
14th Feb 2011 2:17 pm
nigel207
Member Since: 26 Mar 2009
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 1344
Hi DSL,
Warranty Direct. They wanted to inspect the old unit but that wasn't a problem. There was just the slightest resistance in the actuator rod which caused the fault. Pathetic really. All I can say is thank goodness for the warranty. LR warranty paid for one EGR valve, a DMF and a suspension compressor, and WD have paid for the other EGR valve and the turbo (so far). What's next?
It will be interesting to see what the renawal for WD is in a week or two's time.
14th Feb 2011 3:16 pm
jamieg7762
Member Since: 05 Mar 2010
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 1232
Nigel,
Is resistance in the actuator rod something that can be easily checked yourself?d4 HSE in Corris Grey with Black options pack
D3 with the following
Alive Tuning EGR blanking kit
Alive Tuning Re-map
Alive Atrics console
Samco intercooler hoses (from Alive Tuning)
Alive Tuning De-Cat pipe, lovely tone!
Retrofit OEM Hybrid TV tuner
14th Feb 2011 3:57 pm
Renton
Member Since: 13 Jan 2009
Location: Somewhere in the middle
Posts: 1718
Re: Removing the carbon on my turbo - accessing the turbo.
biggabreakfast wrote:
This is a brilliant forum i have learned loads already.
I am going to try and clean my turbo vanes as this seems the natural thing to do before i have to replace the whole turbo.
Discovery 3 tdv6 2005 model.
Will i be able to access the turbo sufficiently to use the Innotech turbo cleaning products or do i have to remove the unit and how do i do that.
has any one used normal oven cleaner before and does it work. there are loads of google results about this cheaper way of de-carbonising the variable vanes.
cheers!!
I used the Innotec and I felt a noticable difference afterwards.
Allthough I did not do it myself I know that the indy did it with removing the turbo.CLUB ILLEGAL CAR WASHERS
14th Feb 2011 3:59 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72787
Cheers, more Deets on mine later.
14th Feb 2011 4:03 pm
nigel207
Member Since: 26 Mar 2009
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 1344
jamieg7762 wrote:
Nigel,
Is resistance in the actuator rod something that can be easily checked yourself?
In my case the old unit was off, and to be quite honest unless I'd got another one side by side I don't know whether I'd have been able to tell. With the lightest touch it should move freely. My old one had the smallest bit of resistance, whereas the replacement was very free (as it should be).
14th Feb 2011 4:45 pm
D4JWW
Member Since: 20 Oct 2009
Location: London, UK
Posts: 1318
nigel207 wrote:
jamieg7762 wrote:
Nigel,
Is resistance in the actuator rod something that can be easily checked yourself?
In my case the old unit was off, and to be quite honest unless I'd got another one side by side I don't know whether I'd have been able to tell. With the lightest touch it should move freely. My old one had the smallest bit of resistance, whereas the replacement was very free (as it should be).
Very interesting, you obviously would have shown photos
If you had any to illustrate Would you say one can clean or free the rod/actuator if one's some where in the sticks?A few mods... and keeping it all running...Faultmate MSV2
MY09EGR's blanked Thanks Bellautos, BAS
14th Feb 2011 5:50 pm
nigel207
Member Since: 26 Mar 2009
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 1344
D4JWW
No photographs I'm afraid, but the actuator rod is clearly self-evident when the turbo is off the vehicle. I can't comment about it when in situ. I just happened to call in to see how progress was going when I was shown the unit from my car.
This carbonisation is a common problem. A lot of VW-drivers here in germany use a simple method to "clean" the vanes: Fasten a steel wire to the actuator and pull hard and fast about 200 times. In most cases this frees the vanes for a decent time. I dont know if one can reach the actuator without removing the turbo (my D4 not delivered yet) and if the actuator is also vacuum driven, but maybe its worth a try.
Voug
14th Feb 2011 6:38 pm
SHARKYSHARKS
Member Since: 20 Dec 2008
Location: Saddleworth Oldham
Posts: 1954
In the olden days a cheap de-coke used to be remove air filter inlet pipe rev engine to about 5k and drop a cap full of brake fluid down the inlet pipe always sorted it
Whether i'd try it on a D3 is another matter MY18 D5 HSE LUX😎
MY12 Freelander SD4 HSE
44 Tonne 12 Litre 6x2 Scania T cab (Current)
Freelander 1 (Wrote off 😫)
Ex D1
Ex D2 GS
Ex V8 D2 GS
Ex D3 S
Ex D4 GS
Club skip ya lockers !!!
Club BAS remote heater !!
Club Duratrac
Club Phillips DRL
Club Prospeed Rack Mk 1
Club Prospeed Rack Mk 2
Club Sankey
Club RLD spare wheel protector
By removing the heat shields under the left wheel arch, and reaching through with very small hands you may be able to get to the actuator link, but it's extremely difficult as the mechanism is on the other side of the turbo from where you can see. I also looked from underneath, with the engine and gearbox trays removed, but even through that route it's very difficult to get a hand up far enough. There was litte thought given to ancillary access when they designed the D3!Previously:
2005 D3 2.7 TDV6 S
1984 90 2.25 Petrol CSW
1992 90 200TDi Hard Top
1995 Discovery ES 300TDi
2003 90 TD5 Truck Cab
14th Feb 2011 7:06 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72787
Mine is going down the "she's going topless" route!! Should help their access.
14th Feb 2011 7:09 pm
D4JWW
Member Since: 20 Oct 2009
Location: London, UK
Posts: 1318
Thanks ridgeback_moor might be an option when stuck in the sticks, DSL is that the question to ask the dealership so see if the know what they doing? Ridgeback would you agree , mine still under LR warranty does the body need to be lifted to do a proper job or would dealers be able to do it with ther eyes close seeing it fails so often?A few mods... and keeping it all running...Faultmate MSV2
MY09EGR's blanked Thanks Bellautos, BAS
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Cheers, more Deets on mine later. 
Would you say one can clean or free the rod/actuator if one's some where in the sticks?
