Member Since: 19 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
So...I'm no further forward but I am now the proud owner of a GAP IID BT!
Had the car out today and sure enough after about 30 mins I get the whole list of warnings as described at the start of the thread with associated bings and bongs.
Just like before, I can turn the ignition off/on 3 times to clear everything on the dash and it's fine for another few minutes.
The GAP is showing me the following codes:
Airbag - U0122-87 (AF) Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message.
Navigation - U2005-31 (2F) Vehicle speed - Frequency Modulation/Pulse width modulation failure - no signal.
Parking Brake - U0122-87 (FB) Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message.
Steering Angle - U0122-87 (2F) Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message.
Suspension - U0122-87 (AF) Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message.
Terrain Response - U0122-87 (2F) Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message.
Transfer Case - U0122-87 (2F) Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message.
Any ideas? It seems like it is an electrical issue somewhere which is causing the VDCM to throw a wobbly. Annoyingly, there are no "C" codes which might point to a failure. Just a lot of "U" codes.
30th Jan 2021 3:07 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13650
Hiya
Personally hadnt heard of that ref turning the key on and off
May i ask plse , have u cleared all the fault codes using the iid then seeing what comes back
Also how old is ur battery and have u rechecked what voltage u get on ur a battery with the engine off and then running plse as indeed a low battery can play havoc on the systems
Plse let us know how u get on
30th Jan 2021 6:19 pm
TyphoonDisco
Member Since: 19 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
The voltage is circa 12.0v with the engine off and then increases to 13.1-13.7v with the engine running. Sometimes it's as high as 14.0v when driving.
So once I get the gambit of warnings on the dash as per my very first post I can clear these by turning the ignition off and on 3 times. This doesn't clear the fault codes that I can read from the IID. Once I've read these fault codes I am clearing them using the IID but then the same ones reoccur when the fault happens again.
The fault codes I've just had this evening are as below. Note the U2005 isn't on this time as the vehicle was stationary.
I still can't help but think the issue is suspension related. When I turn the engine on and monitor the live data it shows gallery pressure quickly rise to about 1000kPa and then slows through 1300kPa and only just reaches 1780kPa before the compressor cuts out at 132 degrees.
Why, when I am in normal ride height upon startup, does the gallery pressure need to rise to 1780kPa. Is this normal?
I also see the gallery pressure fluctuate quite dramatically once the fault occurs.
I've checked the wiring to the pressure sensor and all appears well. When I disconnect the air suspension pressure sensor (under the left hand chassis behind the reservoir) I get a fault code telling me about loss of sensor so I think it's all working correctly.
Before I bought the car it had recently had a new Hitachi compressor fitted. I have checked the Hitachi software is loaded. My thoughts are that the previous compressor obviously failed for some reason. I just can't see what that reason was because there are no suspension fault codes being thrown up.
30th Jan 2021 6:35 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13650
Hiya
Many thks for the results
The battery is is very low , virtually dead, u want at least 12.5 , ideally 12.6 a s should stay around there for at least 2 x weeks , if it drops to 12 v just after a few days and you’ve charged it fully in the past it had it and needs a new one
Personally replaced mine with a yuasa 019 from halfords , was just over a £100 with a trade card and will last a month , however I have mine plugged into a ctek charger on my drive because with the lockdown etc haven’t used it for weeks , plug it via my 12s socket so keeps it topped up
Know when they get low can cause all sorts of issues , plus not having the nightmare after a few days of having a flat battery and won’t start
Ref compressor , with mine it takes a few minutes to go from access to off road height , will climb very quickly , is new, got a dunlop with mine
Maybe urs is a copy or needs the dryer filters looking at , or maybe a leak somewhere , personally when I started mine I just removed the F26 fuse
Don’t know but wonder pulling the F3 fuse clears or stops errors codes coming up, clutching at straws there as I’m not sure , so can’t really say if it does or doesn’t
So personally I would start with the battery , then put into normal height , measure the wheels from the centre to the wheel arch , then just pull fuse F26 and leave overnight
Just thought then we can get a good base line to start from
Understand ur frustration and it can feel like ur not getting anywhere , I had a leak on my front strut but only in off road height
So if I get no drop in normal height , try it in off road height to see if it drops
Sorry am rambling again , lol
Hope that at least may help u a little bit
Ps, if I may also add please ensure ur iPad/ iPhone or which ever device is duly charged when using ur iid, plus many get a ctek 7 charger that has the standby voltage input whilst the disco isn’t running , that way it keeps ur battery charged when u have the ign on , don’t know what ur currently using , I did install a split charge battery system , all it is that u don’t want the voltage to get to low midstream whilst updating software etc
31st Jan 2021 8:37 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13650
Also forget to add
I fitted a battery monitor system that u can check ur battery vosa ten via Bluetooth on ur iPhone / iPad , onky has a range of around 30 x feet so if ur disco is near to ur house is an easy way to keep an eye on it,
Plus u can select an alarm on the software , which comes free with the monitor that u just fit to the battery
Member Since: 19 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
Thanks again Stuart. I will start with a new battery and start from scratch with the suspension fault finding.
The issue I'm finding is that even after doing a suspension calibration using the IID (the guided calibration) the rear right wheel corrects itself to approx 505mm even though I set it at 485mm.
Definitely some shenanigans going on which will require a methodical approach to address.
I really appreciate the help and advice by the way.
You either have a leak, or the air dryer cap might be split, or you need a new compressor, I suspect the latter.
The compressor needs to fill the gallery pipes and air bags before it pressurises the air tank, its not getting to that stage.
Flack
31st Jan 2021 1:35 pm
TyphoonDisco
Member Since: 19 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
I initially thought the compressor might be the issue but it is nearly new (fitted Dec). It does reach pressure (1780 kPa) before cutting out on the first start of the day when everything is cold and the gallery pressure seems to hold ok afterwards. It rises slowly to 1780kPa before tripping off and the gallery pressure quickly drops to circa 350kPa where it stabilises.
The weird thing is that I also get the cascade of faults with the engine off and just the ignition on which is obviously when the suspension is not running. Could this still be due to a suspension issue if it's not running?
The faults definitely seem to arise more often once the car is up to temperature. There is something in it which is related to temperature.
V frustrating!
31st Jan 2021 3:35 pm
TyphoonDisco
Member Since: 19 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
Should I be reading anything into the time stamps on the cascade of issues?
If I was to order them chronologically the latest iteration would be:
All of them are just comms issue as the MOST loop cant be completed.
You need to check for leaks.
Flack
31st Jan 2021 4:38 pm
TyphoonDisco
Member Since: 19 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
Thanks Flack. Can you confirm I would still get the cascade of issues with the engine off and ignition on (position II) if it's a suspension leak? I don't know why it would trigger all the faults with the engine off?
I have done the pulling of F26 overnight to check for corner/front/rear sag and all appears fine. Obviously there could be leaks elsewhere in the system but it would seem the corners bags and font/rear valve blocks are fine. I'm not sure where else to look!
31st Jan 2021 4:47 pm
TyphoonDisco
Member Since: 19 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
UPDATE:
I've just been out to drop the air tank to listen for leaks and bubble check the top seam. I drained the pressure using the IID and then began to drop it. (There are some great instructions on the site for doing this.)
When I got all 4 bolts out (they came out surprisingly easy) I lowered the rear of the tank to begin removing the air line and I could hear a faint hissing when moving the tank and exercising the air line. It appears that air is escaping from where the air line meets the VOSS connector.
Looks like a new air tank, line and VOSS connector are in order! I'm confident about changing the tank but I'm hoping the fitting of the new line to the reservoir block isn't too difficult. As I've dropped the car to the stops (I bled the total system of air) I will need to use a trolley jack to get some kind of access to the left underside of the vehicle.
I will have to just try and feed the new line in by tracing the old line. Should be easier once the car is lifted.
31st Jan 2021 5:53 pm
TyphoonDisco
Member Since: 19 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
FURTHER UPDATE:
I removed the Transfer Case from behind the battery box earlier. There was no evidence of water damage to the top of the Transfer Case or the 3 plugs that fit in but I thought I'd remove it anyway to check inside.
What I found was a slight bit of corrosion on one of the larger chips (marked C43) on the right hand side of the unit. The tiny metal contacts coming from the right of the chip had evidence of slight corrosion/greening which I cleared using a fine brush and needle. It didn't look like any permanent damage so hopefully I won't need a new Transfer Case.
I don't think this was the primary cause of the issues because I still had the faults once everything was refitted and you'd think a fault of that sort would be present on first startup, not just when the car is warm.
I will report back once I've:
- Fitted a brand new battery.
- Fitted a new air tank including the line to the reservoir valve block.
31st Jan 2021 5:59 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13650
Hiya
Ur so welcome snd great it helped a little
Also brilliant u found the leak as indeed wondered that because of the compressor overworking itself due to the motor temperature being high , great the bolts came undone on the tank, mine all snapped, replaced mine with all new stainless steel bolts with slim rubber washers as I was concerned of stainless and steel touching one another
Personally I replaced all my voss connectors with brass pushfits , made life easier and a lot cheaper
If I may plse add @flack is one of the disco wizards here and extremely knowledgeable
Ref working on the disco and hope none of what I’ve said comes across rude or trying to teach u how to suck eggs in any way , plse don’t ever get under the disco without axle stands plus ur find it considerably easier to put the suspension into off road height first, place ur axle stands then will give u safe access with more room underneath , if u have the tank removed u could easily use a 6mm cap to blank the pipe off to at least raise the disco to give u more room to get ur trolly jack / axle stand underneath
Ref airline pipe, plse don’t use a hacksaw to cut the pipe because of the little bits that can be left inside the pipe , using a plastic pipe cutter will give u a nice square cut
Thks again for the updates as always good to know and plse let us know how things go
1st Feb 2021 10:44 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13650
Flack wrote:
All of them are just comms issue as the MOST loop cant be completed.
You need to check for leaks.
Flack
Hi mate
Hope this finds u well
May i ask a Daft question if I may please , would that also cause an ohms error within the canbus , as just curious why a U code is noted and not a C / B / P code or are the U codes classified as a soft error where the others are a hard fault
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