Member Since: 12 Aug 2022
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 16
Suspension fault w/ codes - updated... but not solved!
Good morning,
Thanks for taking the time to have a read. I have an issue with the front suspension on my 05 disco 3.
The past few weeks i've had the wobbly car amber light pop up after a bit of driving and a noticible drop on the 4x4 screen on the front wheels (red line drops and little white lines above wheels also drop). Usually i would carry on driving as it didnt have any real impact on driving and on restarting the car it would pump back up.
Now however on start up the compressor starts for around 5-10s, stops, the wobbly car light comes on with a suspension fault - normal height only message and the front suspension stays dropped but the back stays pressurized which gives me a glimmer of hope!
The thing im most hoping for is the desiccant or the front valve needing to be replaced but if anybody could offer a direction to look down id greatly appreciate it. If anyone see's a code thats unrelated but something that needs looking at please feel free to suggest also.
These are the faults that showed originally:
System Type: ENGINE SYSTEM TEST/VALUES
Name: 276DT - TDV6 HSE
DTC: P0405,Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit Low
DTC: P132B,Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Performance
DTC: P0046,Turbo/Super Charger Boost Control Solenoid Circuit Range/Performance
DTC: P140A,Exhaust gas recirculation sensor C
System Type: GEARBOX
Name: TRANSFER CASE - DIAGNOSE
DTC: P0562,System Voltage Low
DTC: P0820,Gear Lever X-Y Position Sensor Circuit
DTC: U0155,CAN: communication fault with IC (Instrument Cluster)
System Type: CHASSIS
Name: ATCM - ALL TERRAIN CONTROL MODULE (ALL TERRAIN CONTROL MODULE)
DTC: U0401,Invalid data received from engine control module/powertrain control module
DTC: U0421,Invalid data received from ride level control module
System Type: BRAKES
Name: ANTILOCK BRAKING SYSTEM - BOSCH (BOSCH)
DTC: U0132,Lost Communication With Ride Level Control Module
System Type: SUSPENSION
Name: RLM - RIDE LEVEL CONTROL MODULE
DTC: C1131,Air Supply
DTC: C1A20,Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir
DTC: C1130,Air spring air supply
System Type: STEERING
Name: STEERING SYSTEM - DIAGNOSE
DTC: U0300,Internal Control Module Software Incompatibility
System Type: AIRBAG ELECTRONICS (SRS)
Name: AIRBAG - DIAGNOSE
DTC: B1A00,Control module
System Type: CENTRAL ELECTRONIC UNIT
Name: BODY - DIAGNOSE
DTC: B1A99,Power reset
DTC: B1B01,Key transponder
DTC: B1B02,Low frequency coil
DTC: B1B70,Local interconnection network bus circuit 2
DTC: B1B85,Seat memory control module
DTC: B1B89,Seat slide motor, hall sensor
DTC: B1B91,Seat tilt motor hall sensor
DTC: B1B92,Seat recline motor relay
DTC: B1C14,Driver left/right mirror motor feedback circuit
DTC: B1C16,Passenger left/right mirror motor feedback circuit
DTC: B1C57,Unused relay drive
DTC: B1C62,Battery Saver Power Relay Circuit Failure
DTC: B1D07,Lamp Turn Signal Right Circuit Failure
DTC: B1D17,Bus fault
DTC: U0155,CAN: communication fault with IC (Instrument Cluster)
Then once cleared these where left
DTC: U0421,Invalid data received from ride level control module
DTC: U0132,Lost Communication With Ride Level Control Module
DTC: C1A20,Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir
DTC: P0405,Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit Low
Last edited by Kieran.O on 12th Dec 2022 10:50 am. Edited 1 time in total
5th Dec 2022 11:13 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Hi , hope the following helps ref the C1A20 code as personally that’s where I would start
Compressor fault
• Reservoir pipe air leak
• Reservoir air leak
• Gallery pipe air leak
• Intake filter blocked/restricted
Plus u can get rebuild kits for the compressor , valve blocks , the reservoir tank is also a favourite for leaking on top of the tank where the weld is,
Also if u have a look at ur compressor there are 2 x types , hitachi or an AMK which is an upgraded model if u need to replace the compressor
5th Dec 2022 5:23 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Here’s also a link ref that code , including a chart showing what pressure the compressor should be producing , so easy to check from ur diagnostic reader’s live data
Plus u can get rebuild kits for the compressor , valve blocks , the reservoir tank is also a favourite for leaking on top of the tank where the weld is,
Also if u have a look at ur compressor there are 2 x types , hitachi or an AMK which is an upgraded model if u need to replace the compressor
Thank you very much for this as well for the link, had a quick scan through it and its got a lot of useful info!
All of a sudden the compressor seems to be pressurizing the front bags now but theyre still not keeping pressure so the faults still there but thankfully the car will drive without me getting a concussion or looking like i've got a lady of the night in there
6th Dec 2022 10:38 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Ur so welcome and glad it’s of some use to u , did make me laugh ref the lady of the night
There is a basic test to see if the system is leaking by putting it into normal ride height
Measure each wheel from the bottom of the wheel arch liner to the centre of the wheel in MM
Front should be 466mm and rears 485mm
Then Remove fuse F26 from u engines fuse box and leave over night
See if one particular corner has dropped or maybe the front , with the fuse out it stops the self level function and therefore can lead u to where it might be leaking
Alas with a leak the compressor will ultimately burn itself out where it tries to keep up so indeed best to find the leak as soon as u can
Using the live data of ur code reader will also help a lot as ur be able to see the compressors motor temperature and what the output is
Hope that’s also useful to u and plse let us know how ur get on
6th Dec 2022 6:35 pm
Kieran.O
Member Since: 12 Aug 2022
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 16
Thank you for your help so far. I've managed to make a little progress.
So I done the over night test and within a couple of hours both front sides were dropping which lead me to believe it was potentially the front valve and a day or two later the EAS packed in again.
The biggest mistake I've made is selling our other car because now only having the D3 it's difficult taking it out of action to do any maintenance!
So, yesterday I got a chance and took the valve off which was made difficult by the nice winter the UK is experiencing and also being a complete amateur having to do it with the wheel on cause I don't have a jack 2 out of 3 valve pistons? Where okay, the middle was stuck so I freed/cleaned as my service kit has not come yet. I also saw a white powder and was aware this might be desiccant.
This morning I've been up since 0730 taking the compressor off and this is what I'm met with - I'm sort of happy as from googling its a Arnott compressor which means one of the last owners has upgraded it however the condition of it I'm not to sure on, maybe you could offer your opinion?
Taking off the desiccant chamber i may have found a issue
I haven't ordered a service kit for this as I was hoping it could've been saved but that's rock solid - frozen to an extent I need to get a hammer and chisel out to get that out so obviously I need new desiccant but do you think this could have damaged the compressor?
12th Dec 2022 10:50 am
SpiderBaby D3 Decade
Member Since: 21 Sep 2007
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 1399
The dessicant gets wet and will freeze in this weather.
You can dry it out in the microwave and dry out the filter pads on a radiator - might at least buy you some time.
The powder in the valve blocks is indeed dessicant - I've rebuilt mine before with a repair kit and it does work.
If you plan on keeping and maintaining it get a decent trolley jack and axle stands - you don't want to take any chances under these things.I see no ships........
12th Dec 2022 11:24 am
Kieran.O
Member Since: 12 Aug 2022
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 16
Another update - that's actually a sort of paper filter which now it's inside has softened and revealed the caviar... is this okay or not - I don't know
12th Dec 2022 11:25 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Hi
Good you’ve made some progress
Personally would first get ur self a decent jack and axle stands , then ur be able to work safely , got mine from SGD , u can disable the suspension by pulling fuse F26 from the engine bay
indeed that white desiccant can cause havoc on the system where it gets underneath the seals and therefore prevents them from closing properly
Had this on mine and ended up disconnecting the pipe from the front valve block that goes to the reservoir valve block , then blew the line out with compressed air
U could use a tyre inflator or maybe a can of compressed air
So as that filter is blocked indeed will stop the compressor of being able to take air in , causing the motor to overheat and not output the required pressure
U might need to replace the front valve block if u can’t get all the white desiccant powder out
Feel for u as it’s always miserable working in the cold
Hope that helps a little
12th Dec 2022 11:26 am
Kieran.O
Member Since: 12 Aug 2022
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 16
SpiderBaby wrote:
The dessicant gets wet and will freeze in this weather.
You can dry it out in the microwave and dry out the filter pads on a radiator - might at least buy you some time.
The powder in the valve blocks is indeed dessicant - I've rebuilt mine before with a repair kit and it does work.
If you plan on keeping and maintaining it get a decent trolley jack and axle stands - you don't want to take any chances under these things.
Just beat me to it... thank you for your reply mate
12th Dec 2022 11:27 am
Kieran.O
Member Since: 12 Aug 2022
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 16
gstuart wrote:
Hi
Good you’ve made some progress
Personally would first get ur self a decent jack and axle stands , then ur be able to work safely , got mine from SGD , u can disable the suspension by pulling fuse F26 from the engine bay
indeed that white desiccant can cause havoc on the system where it gets underneath the seals and therefore prevents them from closing properly
Had this on mine and ended up disconnecting the pipe from the front valve block that goes to the reservoir valve block , then blew the line out with compressed air
U could use a tyre inflator or maybe a can of compressed air
So as that filter is blocked indeed will stop the compressor of being able to take air in , causing the motor to overheat and not output the required pressure
U might need to replace the front valve block if u can’t get all the white desiccant powder out
Feel for u as it’s always miserable working in the cold
Hope that helps a little
Helps a lot mate thank you for taking the time to reply
12th Dec 2022 11:28 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Kieran.O wrote:
Another update - that's actually a sort of paper filter which now it's inside has softened and revealed the caviar... is this okay or not - I don't know
Plus 1 what @ SpiderBaby has just mentioned about drying it out and cleaning the filters to give u some time
Hopefully ur be able to clean the filters and dry out the beads
12th Dec 2022 11:30 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
This is personally the jack and axle stands I got , there are of course other makes etc , just wished to share the links for u as an option
Last edited by gstuart on 12th Dec 2022 11:38 am. Edited 1 time in total
12th Dec 2022 11:34 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Kieran.O wrote:
gstuart wrote:
Hi
Good you’ve made some progress
Personally would first get ur self a decent jack and axle stands , then ur be able to work safely , got mine from SGD , u can disable the suspension by pulling fuse F26 from the engine bay
indeed that white desiccant can cause havoc on the system where it gets underneath the seals and therefore prevents them from closing properly
Had this on mine and ended up disconnecting the pipe from the front valve block that goes to the reservoir valve block , then blew the line out with compressed air
U could use a tyre inflator or maybe a can of compressed air
So as that filter is blocked indeed will stop the compressor of being able to take air in , causing the motor to overheat and not output the required pressure
U might need to replace the front valve block if u can’t get all the white desiccant powder out
Feel for u as it’s always miserable working in the cold
Hope that helps a little
Helps a lot mate thank you for taking the time to reply
No problem and happy it’s useful to u
Alas many of us have been where u are so can sympathise as it’s not a very nice job , particularly in the cold , ur find this forum extremely helpful and full of very knowledgeable members
Plse let us know how u get on
12th Dec 2022 11:37 am
Kieran.O
Member Since: 12 Aug 2022
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 16
gstuart wrote:
This is personally the jack and axle stands I got , there are of course other makes etc , just wished to share the links for u as an option
Cheers, not badly priced to be fair... I think a set of these and the gap tool will help a lot but it will be an after Christmas purchase I think!
The forum is great, a reason I wanted a disco was because the vast knowledge people on here have of them I can learn some new skills and do the job properly... once I can start contributing back more then I'll be happy!
I will get these dried out and order a new bag of beads/filters... hopefully this fixes the issue - if not back to the drawing board!
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