Member Since: 07 May 2007
Location: South East Essex
Posts: 2858
I'm so confused now about jacking the car!
I bought the trolley jack because the LR one scared me! and I need a good jack to be able to change all the wheels before going off-road. I also want to be able to put it up onto axle stands so ai can get underneath and clean out the cr*p that accumulates there.
Now, I've just searched this site and found that there seem to be conflicts as where and what the suspension should be set to (manual says off-road height) the car should be jacked - these are from various posts as follows:
"Land Rover recovery boys recommend that you jack the car up from the suspension pickup point so that the car doesn't go into extended mode"
"You don't need a 3 tonne jack a 1.5 tonne will do. Get a standard good quality jack and jack the vehicle up by placing the jack under the wishbones."
"I always use a piece of wood on top of the jack when jacking the chassis. Stops the paint getting damaged, and spreads the load. Don't use a piece of wood if you jack under a wishbone though, it can slip off there."
"Gents, interestingly this very topic was covered at the Rockingham off road centre. They suggested carrying a proper jack (which i cant see being very useful off road). My wife was horrified at the way jack and spigot need to fit in to the wishbone..."
"...jack on the wishbones, that will prevent the suspension 'error' due to the loading being maintained on the suspension, using the conventional method of jacking on the chassis rails will induce problems"
"I always raise it to off-road height before jacking, it says so in the book..."
"I think that the act of lifting on the wishbones, because of the multi-articulation of the suspension, is actually signalling to the control system that the suspension is frozen (read stuck); the result is that the system freezes at that height until it is reset."
"Of course, there are plenty of places that you place a trolley jack to lift the vehicle, but remember that air suspension vehicles are jacked from the chassis, not the suspension arms. Go and try it both ways, and watch what happens to the height sensor using both methods......."
"OK, we placed Slimers car on the ramp and lifted up the wheels via the wishbones and guess what we got a suspension error. I could not even see any movement in the wheels either, I am beaten on this one."
"Yesterday, I changed my front brake pads, and lifted it with a trolley jack under the centre-front cross member, and placed axle stands under the wishbones. I did raise it to off-road height first. When I had finished, it reported no errors or anything unusual. Just started her up, lowered to normal and drove away."
SO .... and excuse me for being ignorant, I don't have a CLUE what the wishbone jack places are (the only wishbone I know is in a chickens neck ) and if this is the right place to use? What I want to do is to get TWO wheels off the ground at a time and do the work - safely (with axle stands)
21st Oct 2007 9:35 pm
DaveT
Member Since: 01 Aug 2005
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2572
TazDaz,
Excellent post
It is indeed a mass of conflicting info.
I'm planning to swap my wheels in the next couple of days. I'll try to take some pics of the various options.
One thing I am sure in my mind, is that a trolley jack, wherever it's used, is far better than the disgrace that LR issue with the car.
(not that I'm the least bit qualified to give any advice on the subject etc. etc.)
DaveLong succession of Disco's since 2001...
SIII Lightweight - neglected & rusting. Bulkhead, A panels, vent panel & outriggers now disintegrated - Next years project!
21st Oct 2007 10:00 pm
blue meanie D3 Decade
Member Since: 04 Aug 2005
Location: Newbury
Posts: 6861
if it's of any help, (which I'm sure it isn't) when I swap the fronts on mine;
I use a 3t Halfords trolley jack, without the saddle, on the subframe with one of the sump guard retaining bolts located in where the saddle would be... and theeeeennn......???
21st Oct 2007 10:09 pm
TazDaz
Member Since: 07 May 2007
Location: South East Essex
Posts: 2858
Yes the jack supplied isn't really suitable although I've used mine twice but second time it seemed to be bending a bit. Ran out of steam winding it up and had to get swmbo to help
*sigh* have done a few more searches only to find more conflicts regarding jacking
TFC quote "Changed tyres many times, initially with the LR scissor jack and more recently with a two stage bottle jack. As winger says, go to offroad height first, you'll hear the suspension hiss and fart a bit. the maximum safe extension on the LR jack is about 60mm clear of the ground. Again, as Winger states, jack on the chassis legs - not the suspension wishbones"
**puzzled**
21st Oct 2007 10:13 pm
DiscoStu
Member Since: 09 Apr 2006
Location: London
Posts: 11412
When I did my brake pads I locked it in access height and left a door open to stop the suspension raising.
Member Since: 04 Aug 2005
Location: Newbury
Posts: 6861
you could always donate a tenner to your local ATS/KwikFit/etc Christams box each time you want to swap wheels TD and not worry about it at all... and theeeeennn......???
21st Oct 2007 10:16 pm
TazDaz
Member Since: 07 May 2007
Location: South East Essex
Posts: 2858
DiscoStu wrote:
When I did my brake pads I locked it in access height and left a door open to stop the suspension raising.
Worked fine
Stu - I've also seen that mentioned before too ... but where do you locate the (trolley) jack ?
21st Oct 2007 10:19 pm
TazDaz
Member Since: 07 May 2007
Location: South East Essex
Posts: 2858
blue meanie wrote:
you could always donate a tenner to your local ATS/KwikFit/etc Christams box each time you want to swap wheels TD and not worry about it at all...
might visit one of those establishments to see how they do it ...
21st Oct 2007 10:21 pm
blue meanie D3 Decade
Member Since: 04 Aug 2005
Location: Newbury
Posts: 6861
in all seriousness, I've tried jacking the wishbones up, jacking from the sides at locked-access, normal and offroad heights etc.... I don't think I would have tried any of these without a jack that was over-specced for the job ie 3T plus axle stands. there's no margin for error when you consider the weight of even half a D3 slipping off something and coming crashing down.and theeeeennn......???
21st Oct 2007 10:44 pm
SN
Member Since: 03 Jan 2006
Location: Romiley
Posts: 13710
I always lay a wheel under the side of the car which is being jacked up too - something I've done with every motor I've ever ownedSteve N | 21MY Defender | 08MY Discovery 3 (history) | 06MY Discovery 3 (ancient history)
there's no margin for error when you consider the weight of even half a D3 slipping off something and coming crashing down.
Tell me about it. I didn't chock the wheels properly when I lifted the car on the Takla yesterday evening. Made a hell of a stain in my pants when the jack fell forward halfway through inflating it. Broke the bayonet on the hose too
Still, the new compressor worked ok, had the car back up again in about 4 minutes. So here I am, best exhaust bungs in the business and no chuffing hose........ I know it's not considered "kind" to say no these days, but no. Just no, ok? And if it's not ok, still no.
22nd Oct 2007 9:59 am
ronp
Member Since: 29 Nov 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 15214
ronp wrote:
Therefore the CT3000G 3T is where my £65 is going!
Bought this today, and Yes it's same spec as the £82 one but without the Quick Lift.
Seems a damn good buy.I was a normal heterosexual chap, but in these new woke awakenings I now identify as a Wardrobe.
22nd Oct 2007 6:49 pm
TazDaz
Member Since: 07 May 2007
Location: South East Essex
Posts: 2858
ronp wrote:
ronp wrote:
Therefore the CT3000G 3T is where my £65 is going!
Bought this today, and Yes it's same spec as the £82 one but without the Quick Lift.
Seems a damn good buy.
Ron, now all you have to do is decide where to place the ing thing to use it - back, front, side, blah blah ....
Hope you've got some serious axle stands too ...
22nd Oct 2007 7:48 pm
ronp
Member Since: 29 Nov 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 15214
so ya reckon it's gonna slide?
Was thinkin about same position as std jack ????
Or maybe the wishbones ??????
WHERE THE H3LL DO I PLACE IT I was a normal heterosexual chap, but in these new woke awakenings I now identify as a Wardrobe.
22nd Oct 2007 10:41 pm
ronp
Member Since: 29 Nov 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 15214
ronp wrote:
ronp wrote:
Therefore the CT3000G 3T is where my £65 is going!
Bought this today, and Yes it's same spec as the £82 one but without the Quick Lift.
Seems a damn good buy.
Just want to say, this is an excellent piece of kit for the money.
Used it today for the first time to change to my 17's/STT's.
It's rock solid, doesn't move about like the reports on the £42 one.
Also don't need the quick lift like the £82 one, in fact with the standard lift it's dead easy to locate the plate exactly where you need it on the chassis [and it doesn't slide].
It's a cracker for £65 and it really does instill confidence when lifting such a heavy 'beast'.
I was a normal heterosexual chap, but in these new woke awakenings I now identify as a Wardrobe.
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
I'm so confused now about jacking the 
car!
) and if this is the right place to use? What I want to do is to get TWO wheels off the ground at a time and do the work - safely (with axle stands)
When I did my brake pads I locked it in access height and left a door open to stop the suspension raising.
might visit one of those establishments to see how they do it ...
and coming crashing down.
| 08MY Discovery 3 (history) 
Ron, now all you have to do is decide where to place the 
