Member Since: 26 Apr 2014
Location: Leamington Spa
Posts: 429
Sorry, another upper tailgate problem
Hi all,
So upper tailgate will unlock by pressing the unlock and lock buttons together on dash and also the Land Rover button on key fob so I presume the actuator is fine.
When pressing the switch in tailgate handle nothing happens.
Read loads when a search on the forum is performed but can't seem to find anybody that's had same fault, if I somebody has had the same fault theirs been no fix updates.
I have replaced the switch In the handle but still the same.
Really sorry to bring this issue up again and any ideas would be really appreciated.
23rd Dec 2021 9:14 pm
Flapper
Member Since: 04 Feb 2015
Location: Gloucester
Posts: 329
Sounds like the wire from the handle to the actuator is broken.
If you think of the path it has to go I'm guessing its either broken by the hinge at the top (by the roof) or by the drop down bit (by the bumper) as these are the bit that have to bend when you open and close the boot.
if you open the boot and take the cover off the bottom bit to expose the actuator make sure the plug is pushed into the actuator, just in case its not fully seated. (this was my problem) see if it works.
if not you should be able to see the trigger wire and test it at the actuator see if it pops open then either trace the wire to the switch and fix the broken wire or just run a new pair of wires to the handle and fit a new switch (as you might break the tabs when removing the switch).
hope this helps as doing the actuator when the boots locked shut is no joke, i have done this 2 times.
F
24th Dec 2021 11:08 am
Leon
Member Since: 26 Apr 2014
Location: Leamington Spa
Posts: 429
Thanks Flapper , have had a look at the plug on the actuator and have a purple and black wire in it, I presume these are both inputs ? One from the car (when key fob is used ) and one from the switch in the handle?.....or am I talking rubbish.
24th Dec 2021 7:56 pm
Leon
Member Since: 26 Apr 2014
Location: Leamington Spa
Posts: 429
Thanks Flapper , have had a look at the plug on the actuator and have a purple and black wire in it, I presume these are both inputs ? One from the car (when key fob is used ) and one from the switch in the handle?.....or am I talking rubbish.
24th Dec 2021 8:02 pm
Flapper
Member Since: 04 Feb 2015
Location: Gloucester
Posts: 329
I have no diagrams but if you make a jumper and short the 2Wire together and it pops the actuator that's the switch wires.
These are the same wire that will be in the handle so you can either mend the existing or run new have a look on powerfully they do this fix on YouTube.
24th Dec 2021 9:03 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Leon wrote:
Thanks Flapper , have had a look at the plug on the actuator and have a purple and black wire in it, I presume these are both inputs ? One from the car (when key fob is used ) and one from the switch in the handle?.....or am I talking rubbish.
Here’s some wiring diagrams for u, plus may i ask please when u press ur ordinary fob button do just ur doors open after the second press on the fob apart from the upper tail gate plse , I’ll have a look through the wiring diagrams to see what fuses etc and colour wire it’s supposed to supply the upper tailgate switch via the normal fob unlock button
might just be a bad earth or fuse , plus with a multimeter I think the feed connector is up behind the headlining panel, if so , u could undo the u do the connector , put ur meter onto ohms and go from that connector to ur switch connections, that way ur ensure there’s no break in the loom between that headlining connector and ur switch
Have u tested ur grounds yet as very easy to do with a multimeter
Hope it may help a little
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26th Dec 2021 3:41 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Looks like ur black / purple when u press the ordinary fob button should provide u with 5Vdc
Taken a zoomed in screenshot of the wiring diagram and will try and find the connectors for u so u can test there
26th Dec 2021 3:59 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Here’s the screen shot for u, am just looking for the connectors for u to see if I can find them
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26th Dec 2021 4:02 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Just had a look when I had my headliner out, think there the connectors at the top , apologises I’m not 100% sure , someone else may be able to confirm this for u ,2nd pic of where the earths terminate
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26th Dec 2021 4:12 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Flapper wrote:
I have no diagrams but if you make a jumper and short the 2Wire together and it pops the actuator that's the switch wires.
These are the same wire that will be in the handle so you can either mend the existing or run new have a look on powerfully they do this fix on YouTube.
Hi
Apologises as not trying to step on ur toes, didn’t wish for it to come across as disrespectful to u
Alas not 100% if that connector by the headliner is indeed the one that goes to the switch u mentioned
Thks again
26th Dec 2021 4:15 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Also just found some more pics , plus out of curiosity have u got a fuel filler flap lock please and if so does it work, is on fuse 50 in the passenger side fuse box - 10 amp ,fuse F49 (30A) is for ur Central locking
Please let us know how u get on , including testing the earths etc
Ps, please don’t think I’m being rude but an easy way to test an earth using a multimeter is -
Turn the ignition on, meter set to Vdc, one test probe onto ur ground point , then the other probe onto ur negative battery post , Plse let us know what readings u get if u decide to do that
So,
1) do all ur doors open with 2 x presses of the normal fob button
2) do u have a locking fuel flap and does it work please
3) see if u have power at the connector by the headliner
4) test ur earths
5) check passenger side fuse box, No. 49 and 50
6) if that all checks out, multimeter onto ohms, could disconnect the connector by the headliner , remove positive battery lead and test ur loom connector for continuity down to the wires the other end by the switch , therefore ensuring u haven’t got a break in the wiring loom
I better stop waffling , lol, , Plse let us know how u get on
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26th Dec 2021 4:17 am
Leon
Member Since: 26 Apr 2014
Location: Leamington Spa
Posts: 429
Many thanks, that's really good of you to help like you have.
Does the tailgate switch just ground the output fron the CJB which in turn sends a voltage to the actuator to open top tailgate down another cable ?
Or am I barking up the wrong tree.
26th Dec 2021 7:42 am
Leon
Member Since: 26 Apr 2014
Location: Leamington Spa
Posts: 429
Just to confirm that all other doors will unlock with remote, both bottom tailgate actuators work when button is pressed on the top of the bottom tailgate.
Fuel flap works ok
The top tailgate will unlock when unlock and lock buttons are pressed on the dash (somebody needs to be at the back of the car to open it when actuator activates)
Just the button in the handle by the numberplate lamps doesn't activate the actuator to open the top tailgate. I have replaced this switch with a new one, was convinced it was the old switch that was faulty.
So I presume actuator is fine and the cable from the CJB to the actuator is OK as it unlocks when the dash buttons are pressed?.
26th Dec 2021 8:04 am
Leon
Member Since: 26 Apr 2014
Location: Leamington Spa
Posts: 429
Would anybody be able to point me in the right direction of a quick connector location picture for a RHD D3, found a LHD D4 in the WIKI.
Found all the connectors that I'm looking for on that but not sure if the positions are the same on a RHD D3.
Thanks again all
26th Dec 2021 10:54 am
Leon
Member Since: 26 Apr 2014
Location: Leamington Spa
Posts: 429
Hi all, hope you had a good Christmas and Happy New year.
I'm going to be having a look at this today thanks to the drawings Gary has put on.
Am I right in that I should have 12V on one side of the switch in the tailgate handle and the other side goes down to ground so when switch is pressed its grounding the 12v supply from the FET in the central junction box.
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