Member Since: 28 Feb 2021
Location: Dorset
Posts: 10
2.7 TDv6 2006 won’t start
Good evening, apologies if this has been covered before. I have tried searching etc but I’m not to clued up on how these forums work, so please don’t shoot me. I’ll try to make a long story short, yesterday I made a 17 mile drive without a problem stopped in a shop came out started fine, made a further stop just up the road on trying to restart 5 minutes after switching off it cranks fine and fires but will not run. After tinkering and searching the internet. Battery is less than a month old and it’s the correct battery I have fuel flow to the valve behind the oil filter, on cranking I have a readings from diagnostic machine of around 700 bar from the HPFP and and engine speed of around 700rpm which in turn should rule out in tank pump, high pressure pump and crank shaft sensor? Readings from the maf sensor and intake temp all seem normal. Timing belt was done about 10000 miles ago. I’ve checked the obvious plugs and wiring around the engine bay all seem fine. So has anyone had this issue or similar before that could guide me in the right direction? Egr valve has also been blanked off long before I bought it 6 years ago. No fault codes stored no lights on dash either. Other obvious things are it was serviced recently with a new fuel filter etc and has been fine since. One again I apologise if this has been covered before and I have tried searching with no luck
Thanks in advance and any help would be appreciate
28th Feb 2021 12:34 am
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1783
Welcome to the forum. I know only a little about diesels so I am sure others will be along soon. My understanding is that diesels require fuel and compression and as it turns over I would suspect lack of fuel or bad fuel. I did read somewhere about using the correct fuel filter so that should be checked along with the connections on top of the filter.
28th Feb 2021 2:39 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4657
Hi Martin and welcome,
You need not have worried with regard being shot after just one post. as we're really not all that bad on here. (yet )
Anyway, munitions are usually reserved for your second or third post.
As regards your problem, if you could fully complete your profile we will then know exactly which model and year of vehicle you are referring to. This will then help us to tailor a more accurate response. The other thing I noticed is that you say there are no fault codes! Usually, with any modern vehicle where there is a fault, a code has to be logged as the systems are robustly designed that way.
I don't know what diagnostic tool you are using, but I suspect it may be generic and therefore limited in it's ability to interrogate the LR modules. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
28th Feb 2021 5:02 am
itguy
Member Since: 30 Dec 2009
Location: Melton Mowbray, Leics
Posts: 181
Have you got the spare key? I wonder if it is an immobiliser problem as you say everything else checks out as it should ?
28th Feb 2021 7:49 am
Martin540
Member Since: 28 Feb 2021
Location: Dorset
Posts: 10
Hi, in response to some reply’s. profile now updated. It’s a late 2006 model 2.7tdv6 se.
Code reading software I’m using is JLR, I also have launch so they are not generic I’ve tried both no fault codes accept 1 which had been there for 6 years plus because the egr valve has been blanked off so it’s not that. Also I only have 1 key which was left in the ignition with the engine switched off for 3 minutes the second time I stopped so key issue is highly unlikely.
Thanks again 😁
28th Feb 2021 9:20 am
Prette
Member Since: 16 Mar 2020
Location: Previously Stoke-ST4 (pre-pandemic), Mostly The Hague (NL) partially Lyngby (DK) certainly somewhere
Posts: 160
I had some issues with keys in the past , in my case the engine wouldn't even crank with the key immobilizer issue, so i suppose your key is fine.
It has been a long time since i read something related to a "Crash safety cut-off" or something like that. Just throwing some ideas here.
28th Feb 2021 9:51 am
Martin540
Member Since: 28 Feb 2021
Location: Dorset
Posts: 10
Hi, I would have thought that anything to do with crash sensors would shut down the in tank pump but it runs and supply’s fuel ok up to the bleed valve behind the oil filter housing 🤔
28th Feb 2021 10:20 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10364
Remove the oil cap and look at the camshaft.
Ensure it rotates when cranking the engine
Ensure there are no cracks in the cambelt cover on drivers side
28th Feb 2021 2:55 pm
Martin540
Member Since: 28 Feb 2021
Location: Dorset
Posts: 10
Timing belt is fine engine cranks normally with compression. After looking at it again earlier it starts now and idles really irratic and the live data from the engine rpm drops to zero and is all over the place so I’m now guessing crankshaft position sensor 🙄I’ve read it’s a really easy job to do 😩🤬
28th Feb 2021 5:05 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4657
You should have a dtc! Have you looked in "live values" to see if there's anything obvious there?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
28th Feb 2021 5:25 pm
Martin540
Member Since: 28 Feb 2021
Location: Dorset
Posts: 10
Yes now got loads of codes one being PO335 CPC circuit A intermittent but it wasn’t there yesterday so I’ve gotta start there I guess 🤔
28th Feb 2021 5:27 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4657
Crank sensor so, lovely job for a sunny Sunday afternoon. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
28th Feb 2021 5:35 pm
Martin540
Member Since: 28 Feb 2021
Location: Dorset
Posts: 10
Here's an update 🙄 had it towed to a local LR specialist as I just couldn't work on it at home. Been quoted £2000-£2500 as it's 2 days labour to change the crank shaft position sensor 😱 but they are not 100% confident thats the problem so I'm not going to gamble on 2.5k going to collect it the weekend
10th Mar 2021 7:22 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4657
Site member Steve Norman is in Summerset if that's not too far from you!
Although I do not know him I'm sure he'll advise you correctly. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
10th Mar 2021 8:35 pm
Martin540
Member Since: 28 Feb 2021
Location: Dorset
Posts: 10
Thank you, I try and look him up. Book time on auto data and Haynes Pro is 6 to 7 hours to remove and replace turbo. Call it 10 hours to allow for the odd snapped stud etc @£65 per hour plus £88 for a genuine sensor is £738 plus vat is nearer £1000 not £2500 🤦♂️ guess they are just covering themselves as they have told me they have never replaced one
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