"guess they are just covering themselves as they have told me they have never replaced one"
My advice would be to find somebody else to do it fella The happiest of people don't necessarily have the best of everything;
They just make the best of everything they have.
11th Mar 2021 1:25 pm
Martin540
Member Since: 28 Feb 2021
Location: Dorset
Posts: 10
OK so here's a little update. Couldn't find anyone to do it at all nevermind a reasonable price! So I have started doing it myself. Here's how should anyone else be in the same situation in the future. Luckily I can override the suspension height without the engine running, set to high. Jack up left hand front corner and support, remove wheel if you like but no real need but it does let a bit of light in. Remove lower metal engine protection plate oil level sensor plug, front diff support and 3x 24mm bolts on the side, 6 bolts at front prooshaft joint and drop diff down out of the way now you can easily get your hand up in there, unplug it and remove the rubber cover... Now stuff gets real, there's is no way of seeing what you are doing first I used a phone to take a picture of what I was up against and its aT25 torx bolt. You will need to go on amazon and buy a cheapo USB endoscope with an led light in the end poke that in the hole along with a thin 100mm torx bit and undo and it comes out easily. Real working time so far around 2 hours not including coffee and smoking. I ordered a genuine crank sensor from land rover and still waiting for it to arrive. The pickup ring on the crankshaft looks OK, you can check that with your endoscope after the sensor is removed. Not to say I have fixed the issue but I will know once I've got the new one in place. On a ramp I'd say this is a 3 hour job, on your back probably 4 hours so for those who are not sure there is no need to remove the turbo, and part of it of the exhaust downpipe it is fidly but spend that 19.99 on an endoscope camera and thank me later 👍
15th Mar 2021 7:13 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4680
I'm surprised you couldn't get someone to do that, but you're there now. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
15th Mar 2021 7:50 pm
Martin540
Member Since: 28 Feb 2021
Location: Dorset
Posts: 10
It's alive. New sensor eventually turned up and I've just fitted it, I've done some jobs in my life and that one is right up there. If anyone needs any advice in the future feel free to contact me 🍻
20th Mar 2021 11:58 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4680
You're sorted
It's probably one of the few D3/4 parts not prone to give trouble.
Thankfully. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
20th Mar 2021 2:52 pm
Skandimike
Member Since: 26 Aug 2010
Location: Billingham
Posts: 51
Just on with mine now and totally agree , there was no thought into how you can change theses sensors when this engine was designed
But I did remove the turbo. No way could I get my hands in there.Mike
25th Jul 2021 3:19 pm
Skandimike
Member Since: 26 Aug 2010
Location: Billingham
Posts: 51
Just on with mine now and totally agree , there was no thought into how you can change theses sensors when this engine was designed
But I did remove the turbo. No way could I get my hands in there.Mike
25th Jul 2021 3:20 pm
Martin540
Member Since: 28 Feb 2021
Location: Dorset
Posts: 10
I feel your pain 🙄 it can be done without removing the turbo if you drop the front diff down you can get your hand in there but you need an endoscope camera to see what your doing. Good luck 👍
26th Jul 2021 10:58 am
adamjames
Member Since: 30 Jul 2023
Location: Oxted
Posts: 5
Martin540 wrote:
OK so here's a little update. Couldn't find anyone to do it at all nevermind a reasonable price! So I have started doing it myself. Here's how should anyone else be in the same situation in the future. Luckily I can override the suspension height without the engine running, set to high. Jack up left hand front corner and support, remove wheel if you like but no real need but it does let a bit of light in. Remove lower metal engine protection plate oil level sensor plug, front diff support and 3x 24mm bolts on the side, 6 bolts at front prooshaft joint and drop diff down out of the way now you can easily get your hand up in there, unplug it and remove the rubber cover... Now stuff gets real, there's is no way of seeing what you are doing first I used a phone to take a picture of what I was up against and its aT25 torx bolt. You will need to go on amazon and buy a cheapo USB endoscope with an led light in the end poke that in the hole along with a thin 100mm torx bit and undo and it comes out easily. Real working time so far around 2 hours not including coffee and smoking. I ordered a genuine crank sensor from land rover and still waiting for it to arrive. The pickup ring on the crankshaft looks OK, you can check that with your endoscope after the sensor is removed. Not to say I have fixed the issue but I will know once I've got the new one in place. On a ramp I'd say this is a 3 hour job, on your back probably 4 hours so for those who are not sure there is no need to remove the turbo, and part of it of the exhaust downpipe it is fidly but spend that 19.99 on an endoscope camera and thank me later 👍
Hi Martin540.
Great info. Just about to do mine. Did you happen to take any photos?
8th Aug 2023 6:19 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4680
His was a manual transmission which is easier, a lot easier. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
8th Aug 2023 6:30 pm
adamjames
Member Since: 30 Jul 2023
Location: Oxted
Posts: 5
Oh no, don't say that lol, is my auto going to be alot harder? any tips?
8th Aug 2023 6:31 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4680
After you've removed the under trays:
Remove the bottom transmission mounting bolt.
Remove the p/s only crossmember bolts.
Mark the position of the front drive shaft to its couplings and remove the bolts (do not reuse)
With a pry bar prise down the crossmember on the p/side and slide out the drive shaft rearwards.
Remove the oil temp sensor plug.
Remove the front diff side support bolts.
Remove the diff bottom support brkt and lower the diff.
Remove the turbo support brkts (although you might get away without so doing)
Remove the turbo oil drain pipe bolts from below the turbo and its gasket.(This will allow you so slightly flex the pipe when getting your hand in. Renew the gasket)
Remove the transmission oil cooler pipe support bracket from below the A/C compressor.
Remove the transmission oil cooler pipes from the p/s of the transmission and move out of your way. (renew seals)
Remove the rubber bung from the crank sensor housing if it's still there.
Insert a 100mm torx bit and unscrew the sensor, but do not remove the bolt from the sensor lest it falls down into the bell housing.
You could try without removing the drive shaft but I don't think the diff will drop far enough to give you the access you need.
As already said, a 5mm inspection camera will make this easier and is perhaps better if you're on your back rather than using a lift when trying to get your hand in there. Remember too you cannot see what you are doing at the sensor housing! It's the one job I really hate on these and can be trying to put it mildly. Transmission oil loss is negligible and so no action is required here. Lastly, and most importantly make sure it's the sensor that is at fault before you take this on!!
I think that's it, if I've missed something someone will chime in I'm sure. Good luck yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
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jobs in my life and that one is right up there. If anyone needs any advice in the future feel free to contact me 🍻
