Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Robbie's ProSpeed Tree & Rock Sliders Fitting Guide
1. Following numerous request here is my pictorial guide on fitting the latest style of ProSpeed Tree and Rock Sliders. As I already had a set of bars fitted the steps do not cover the removal of the pull-off plastic lower trim, but does cover the maintenance requirements when sliders are fitted. I've arranged the (numerous) photos in the order I should have done things, so a few bits are with the benefit of hindsight.
2. Having prepared the vehicle for maintenance (good flat surface, free of hazards etc) and raised it to off-road height (or higher if you have a suitable means) it is time for the big reveal and check of the ProSpeed contents; regrettably no packing list or instructions are supplied with the sliders:
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3. Contents should include left and right handed bars with a perfect ProSpeed finish, 4 door strips cut to the appropriate length, hex fasteners and countersunk washers:
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4. If everything is good then gather the tools. The bars are held on by 5mm hex-head fasteners but a jack, impact wrench, side cutters, penetrating spray (GT85), Dinitrol corrosion prevention spray, copperslip, tape, bucket of soapy water, brush, glass cleaner, rubber protector / silicone spray, cleaning rags and magnetic trays all make the job easier and more professional:
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5. Although I mistakenly did this at the end the next step should be replacing the lower rubber door trims with the shorter style included in the box. Removing these is harder than it looks so I recommend the use of a trim tool to pull them open from the outside. Together with the stiff plastic the accumulated crud along the seals arguably made this the hardest part of the job. If you leave the old seals in place and close the doors on the ProSpeed sliders the old trim will rub hard against the surface of the bars and pinch the seals (as I did):
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6. Once the lower seal area is thoroughly cleaned the new seals can be installed. They are less trouble to fit than the originals but it is easier if they are warmed in the sun and either silicone spray or rubber care is massaged in. If you have not used this type of seal before it is important to snip-off any protruding wires from the ends with side cutters so that they sit below the edge and not scratch anything:
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7. If you already have sliders installed then support them with a jack so they remain steady with the fasteners removed. The bars are heavy with sharp edges and corners so can easily do expensive damage to your Disco. The fasteners can be severely corroded in so penetrating spray and an impact wrench are your friends as hex-head fasteners are easily rounded if you pull on them with a regular ratchet:
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8. I started with my impact driver but it failed to budge a few fasteners; surprisingly moving up to a 3/8" impact wrench didn't help so out came the powerful 1/2" 18v wrench:
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9. With the fasteners removed simply lower the existing bars:
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10. To reveal all the crud that can collect behind them:
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11. Now clean the area thoroughly. As I was going to use a wax corrosion inhibitor I used glass cleaner to remove all old grease and wax before taping up any holes (if required). I leave the rubber grommets in place:
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12. Before using the corrosion inhibitor I applied some copperslip to the internal threads to keep the wax out:
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13. Then spray on the corrosion inhibitor. I used Dinitrol which is just a joy to use. It goes on with no mess or fuss to leave a milky finish. If you have any overspray from a sudden gust of wind it can simply be wiped-up with glass cleaner before leaving it to dry:
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14. Once dry after a few minutes it turns to a clear matt finish:
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15. I sprayed the inside of the sliders too. I really rate this product and so much better than the older treatments:
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16. Jack the new bars into position. The bars slot quite deeply into the front trim so it is best to position the bars to the rear before sliding them forward. The tolerances are quite fine and I found it easier to loosen the lower screw on the front trim to allow enough give to allow them to align with the holes. I still had to use a suitably padded pry bar on one side to push them forward enough to get the fasteners in an ideal position:
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17. Gently tighten all the fasteners before nipping up the ones underneath and then the ones on the sides, working from the middle to the outside edges. This stops the bars sliding against the paintwork. Again, I added some copperslip to the threads:
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18. Not sure of the purpose of the foam which was attached on one side of the bars, but had been ripped away in transit on the other side. One for Ben to answer.
19. Then do a last walk-round inspection before admiring your handiwork:
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20. I am really please with the design, fit and finish; just perfect:
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I hope this helps those who have yet to fit bars of this type.
Regards to all.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 31 Oct 2009
Location: Carluke
Posts: 2815
Very good write up as usual Robbie.
Those pictures have sealed it for me to upgrade from my current Terrafirma sliders to these ones at some point.
The only issue i have with them is they and almost every slider design for the D3/4 is they don't protect the front lower wing area and the trim in that area.
Do they sit wider than the old ones? Really miss my side steps for getting in/out and the Terra's bars are very narrow for aiding getting in/out.
18th Jul 2015 12:42 pm
tayaste
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
I was going to ask the same question, they look to sit wider, even if only a tad, then my current sliders?
18th Jul 2015 12:52 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
I've not measured them but they appear to sit wider than my original set, but not in a way that would adversely impact off-roading. I guess it is logical for them to be wider so that they can accept the plastic step inserts (yet to arrive). They do extend much further forward and have a plate at the rear too.
The best photo comparison I have are these, for the before and after:
Before:
Click image to enlarge
After:
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Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
I would have preferred my current ones a little wider. They look superb. I'm gutted now
18th Jul 2015 1:19 pm
Fitzy73
Member Since: 09 Feb 2014
Location: Truro
Posts: 2407
Another great write up
Makes me wish I hadn't been so tight and just bought a set for myself.Andy
18th Jul 2015 1:20 pm
Dudleydisco
Member Since: 20 Jun 2014
Location: York
Posts: 853
Robbie, I was told that those foam bits are there to stop crud collecting between the slider and the inner door seal.D4 MY14 XXV - RLD/IID BT
D4 MY13 HSE Lux - RLD/IID BT
P38 RR - Sad parting
110 - Even sadder parting
S3 88" - Still going strong after 23 years of ownership
18th Jul 2015 1:49 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
I see. I'll get Ben to send me some foam to replace the missing one.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 17 May 2009
Location: Bury
Posts: 2057
Thanks for that "how to" Robbie just want to get mine on now but hopefully in the next week D4 HSE Lux MY16 Club Waitomo
D3 HSE MY06 missing her still…
19th Jul 2015 12:36 pm
therealboss
Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Co Carlow
Posts: 1958
Think I need a set of these, time to call ben me thinks...Dale
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
tayaste wrote:
I was going to ask the same question, they look to sit wider, even if only a tad, then my current sliders?
Curiosity compelled me to measure my original bars and the new Prospeeds from the flat of the sill to the outside of the bars. Quite a difference:
Original bars:
112mm
New Prospeed bars:
150mm
The extra 38 mm makes quite a difference as the bars are now wider than any part of the Disco (including the handles and upper wheel arches), with only the wing mirrors protruding further.
My best attempts trying to line up the front and rear wheels exactly:
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
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