DG
Site Moderator
Member Since: 12 Dec 2005
Location: The Gaff
Posts: 50951
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The bulk of the work would be done by the relector Matt, so they should do the trick... thats assuming of course that all of the indivdual led's on the unit act as a stop as well as tail, not just the front  (rear) facing ones 21 year LR veteran > D2 GS 2003 > D3 S 2006 > D3 HSE 2009 > D4 HSE 2013 > D4 HSE 2015 > D5 HSE 2018 > DS HSE R-Dynamic P300e 2021
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 9th Aug 2006 5:41 pm |
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MC1903
Member Since: 08 Jan 2005
Location: Hampshire, UK
Posts: 39
  
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d3matt wrote:Putting LEDs in the indicators will require adding a resistor into the wiring loom on each.
Hi Matt...
Why would a resistor be required on the indicators, but not on the stop/tails..?
I am not (in any way, shape or form) an 'electronics' person, so I do not doubt what you are saying is correct... I am just curious as to why...
I kind of like the idea of changing as many bulbs for LED's as is possible... but I don’t fancy cutting wires/etc…
Martin 2005 - Bonatti Grey TDV6 HSE...
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| 9th Aug 2006 7:19 pm |
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eddtheduck
Member Since: 14 Mar 2006
Location: Norwich
Posts: 164
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Presumably because the flasher relay requires a certain current draw to flash at the right rate. On most cars if a bulb blows on one side the remaining lights flash too fast. As a rule LEDs draw much less power.
Not sure if the D3's relays are so load dependent - I'm sure someone will have had a bulb blow and can verify this. 2008.5 D3 HSE, Stornoway, Ebony
2007 BMW 335iSE - lust for speed satisfied
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| 9th Aug 2006 8:41 pm |
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Ken
Member Since: 20 Feb 2006
Location: Here
Posts: 10865
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UltraLed sell the flasher solution will call to check whats needed
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| 9th Aug 2006 8:52 pm |
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DG
Site Moderator
Member Since: 12 Dec 2005
Location: The Gaff
Posts: 50951
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I think you might find that there is a resistor built into the housing of indicator LED's ...so you shouldn't have any probs. 21 year LR veteran > D2 GS 2003 > D3 S 2006 > D3 HSE 2009 > D4 HSE 2013 > D4 HSE 2015 > D5 HSE 2018 > DS HSE R-Dynamic P300e 2021
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| 9th Aug 2006 9:07 pm |
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mudplugger
Member Since: 25 Feb 2006
Location: err... near Inglewhite, Lancs.
Posts: 89
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The Flasher relay either needs to be changed for a 'solid state' "relay" - in reality for those with electronics knowledge - this is a 'triggered bistable circuit' in a relay can, and I'm sure someone out on the new fangled Interweb will make one.. OR a low current relay (I haven't thought the spec through yet) OR use of a BIG resistor to turn the excess power needed into heat... not the most elegant of solutions - but it will work.
Not sure all that messing about is justified just to make the indicators shut down faster and light up faster...
I have to admit though I have changed sidelights, number plate lamps and reversing lamps all to white LED's - they do look good too, and for me have slightly less light throw (useful to reduce the 'presence' when out lamping for those rabbits - other gun toting farmers will know what I mean).
I tried the interior lamps in white LED's too but I felt it made the interior lookand feel 'cold' so went back to the standard capless 5w bulbs.
My prime reason for changing is to ensure speed of reaction on the brake lamps, and bulb life for the more inaccessable lamps.
Cheers (Mines a pint of Thwaites)
Muddy From a two Land Rover household to one big FFRR...
Range Rover Vogue TDV8
Shogun SWB 4Work
Steyr M9094 Tractor
(Still a D3 fan though!)
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| 9th Aug 2006 10:47 pm |
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fakesnake
Member Since: 30 Mar 2006
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 281
 
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Ok, so I give up now.
6th set of brake light bulbs needed so going to order some LED's.
I assume no problems with www.ultraleds.co.uk then? Richard
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| 21st Aug 2006 1:43 pm |
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Slimer
Site Moderator
Member Since: 06 Jan 2005
Location: Last Exit to Nowhere
Posts: 16295
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I'd go to your dealer first, if you've blown 6 sets there's possibly something else wrong The End
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| 21st Aug 2006 1:52 pm |
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10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
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Where did you get the replacement lamps from? if they're from El-Cheapo's emporuim, they may well blow 'early' due to the raised charge voltage on the D3, if not, i'd suggest a trip to the dealer as per Slimers post 
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| 21st Aug 2006 1:58 pm |
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fakesnake
Member Since: 30 Mar 2006
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 281
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Good point, although I thought that there would be a resistor to prevent XS charge from blowing the bulbs??
As the rear side lights are interchangable then perhaps I'll just swop these over tonight & see -they are still the standard L/R items.
It would be with reluctance that I go to the dealership as I don't want to break my 9.5K mile record without a trip there Richard
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| 21st Aug 2006 2:33 pm |
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10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
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None of the external lights on the Disco3 are direct switched in the traditional sense, all the switching is by FET's in the CJB, so even with the slightly elevated voltage, there is a degree of 'soft start' built in. This is also the reason why there is no flasher unit
Cheap lamps generally have a thinner tungsten coil, which will break easier when subjected to vibration and shock. The better ones, AKA rough service lamps often have a 'coiled coil' and more coil supports, of course, they are also more expensive....
an easy way to tell is by the weight as better lamps also tend to have thicker glass
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| 21st Aug 2006 3:16 pm |
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fakesnake
Member Since: 30 Mar 2006
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 281
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OK -out of my depth then. Weighing scales tonight it will be Richard
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| 21st Aug 2006 5:55 pm |
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d3matt
Member Since: 03 Aug 2005
Location: South Oxfordshire
Posts: 1485
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| LED bulbs in the indicators |
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10forcash wrote:None of the external lights on the Disco3 are direct switched in the traditional sense, all the switching is by FET's in the CJB, so even with the slightly elevated voltage, there is a degree of 'soft start' built in. This is also the reason why there is no flasher unit
I was hoping to put LED lamps into the indicators. I tried this years ago on another car, but found that they flashed too fast and I couldn't be bothered to add in resistors.
Now UltraLEDs sell a replacement relay/flasher unit (see http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/product_info.ph...ts_id=978) but from what you're saying, the D3s don't have these anyway.
Do you know if the D3 electronics will therefore work okay with LED bulbs in the indicators and flash at the correct rate? Has anyone tried this?
If not, then I suppose the resitors will have to added (see http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/product_info.ph...212)....if the correct wire can be identified in the loom. Matt
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| 21st Aug 2006 6:08 pm |
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mudplugger
Member Since: 25 Feb 2006
Location: err... near Inglewhite, Lancs.
Posts: 89
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When I first did the rear lamps, I tried a white LED lamp (correct spec in all other ways) in the holder of one side and tested the indicators - so bear in mind the side repeater and the front were still incandescent bulbs - and though it worked fine - with a nice 'sharp' illuminate - the rate of indication doubled.
I took it therefore that any tampering would involve relays or resistors...
Not somewhere I'd personally go with the D3's electronics and wiring harnesses for the sake of a faster yellow bulb.
So I left well alone.
Thanks to this forum I now know different about the relays - and that the D3 switching is FET controlled - (thanks for that, 10forCash) which explains a lot about the signals I got on the 'scope for something else!
Regards,
Muddy From a two Land Rover household to one big FFRR...
Range Rover Vogue TDV8
Shogun SWB 4Work
Steyr M9094 Tractor
(Still a D3 fan though!)
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| 21st Aug 2006 6:21 pm |
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d3matt
Member Since: 03 Aug 2005
Location: South Oxfordshire
Posts: 1485
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10forcash wrote:all the switching is by FET's in the CJB....
Too many acronyms, TFC
What does this mean? Matt
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| 21st Aug 2006 6:35 pm |
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