I really should keep quite as just hearing the word flashing scares me, let along the thought of actually doing it.
I find with my 3, more problems are solved just by sleeping on the problem while charging the battery overnight. Sometimes by morning, the problems are gone, and then I am even more concerned but .... My sort of Polly Anna approach might even apply to a new CJB install.
I regard the 3 as the worlds first electronic 4x4; it really needs about 14VDC to run 5VDC equipment. Why, I do not know, but I just accept it.
My basic fix is a Traxide dual battery setup just for day to day driving and I have a battery charge connector setup for plugging in a CTEK US3300 every few weeks - just as a matter of routine. I have yet to walk and have had all the problems - alternator, starter, battery, air suspension, DVD display that does not turn off, air compressor(s), yes, plural, and the list goes on.
As I said, I really should not be chiming in, but for some reason, the 3 is not happy with any less than 14 volts.
I have a 25 amp charger for anytime I play under the hood or in the fuse boxes - and the digital amps readout hits it sometimes. About the only time I do not hook the charger up is when I change the tyres.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=37382005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
15th Feb 2014 1:54 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
bbyer, first time I have read about your battery install and it is impressively neat and well thought out. Starting with the excellent Traxide kit does help but your installation is of OEM quality.
Voltage does appear to be everything with the D3 and early D4s; living in Canada I understand your zeal for mitigating this to the maximum extent possible. Your thoughts regarding re-flashing are similar to mine and I only do it when it is a must.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
Quote:
it is impressively neat and well thought out. Starting with the excellent Traxide kit does help but your installation is of OEM quality.
Well said Robbie
I really must put this somewhere near the top of my Mod list, but seriously doubt i could do as good a job as you have bbyer
Indeed voltage does seem to be an ever increasing factor in these electronic laden vehicles, especially where re flashing is concerned. It all started way back with the Disco II TD5's and I note that there has been constant technical additions and changes to try and solve this.
But as this thread shows, it seems that the BCM/CJB is still a bit prone to problems that needs a bit more work to fully understand and solve.
engebo
I am sorry to read that you are having problems with your new BCM/CJB
Everything i have read and have been told by those who have experience of fitting new replacement BCM/CJB's tells me that this really should be a plug and play job.
So i really do not know why you are having this problem.
All i can really do to help is make some suggestions and ask some questions that might help
Are you sure that your new CJB was ordered and supplied by your dealer with the correct VIN ?
Are you sure all connectors are properly fitted?
Does the new BCM/CJB respond to your keys in respect of locking / unlocking the doors?
What Diagnostic equipment are you using / have available?
Have you tried a hard reset?
does your old BCM/CJB still work?
15th Feb 2014 6:16 pm
engebo
Member Since: 30 May 2010
Location: Oslo
Posts: 44
Thank You. I've gone thru it one more time:
- Are you sure that your new CJB was ordered and supplied by your dealer with the correct VIN ? Yes, dobbelt checked
- Are you sure all connectors are properly fitted? Checked, one not.
- Does the new BCM/CJB respond to your keys in respect of locking / unlocking the doors? No, but I can use the switches on the console
- What Diagnostic equipment are you using / have available? HawkEye
- Have you tried a hard reset? Yes, done it now
- does your old BCM/CJB still work? Don't know, not tried (it's so tight there)"
Everything seems ok, but I'm not able to start the car. Immobilizer (1623). Must the keys be paired to the CJB?
16th Feb 2014 10:05 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
The keys need to be relearned, which the Hawkeye cannot doMy D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 31 Jul 2011
Location: Southampton
Posts: 592
Even the original keys?
16th Feb 2014 10:11 am
cold_n_wet
Member Since: 05 May 2009
Location: Bergen
Posts: 1509
Martin should be able to help you Engebo.
Give him a ring, Ill pm his number if you dont have it.
GlenIDTOOL PRO / Faultmate programing and BAS remaping services in Norway.
Diagnostic for most Land rover vehicles
Land Rover parts and accessories.
Stockist of RLD equipment.
www.praesto4x4.no
D4 gone, missed but replaced with a 110 Puma.
16th Feb 2014 1:30 pm
engebo
Member Since: 30 May 2010
Location: Oslo
Posts: 44
Thank You Glen. I've been in touch with him already.
16th Feb 2014 2:28 pm
UROMP
Member Since: 04 Jun 2008
Location: PEMBROKESHIRE
Posts: 64
Flack wrote:
Did you have the car on charge when you did the flashing.?.
Flack
Hi Flack, is a Ctek msx 10 ok for flashing
16th Feb 2014 2:35 pm
bellautos
Member Since: 02 Feb 2006
Location: NorthYorkshire
Posts: 2532
The Ctek msx 10, is a 10Amp charger, and as a battery charger its fine for charging., but as a power supply for flash programming on a D3 its not really powerfull eniough.
Pete
16th Feb 2014 2:57 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Yep as above but I do admit to using my 10 amp in supply mode (with a charged battery) when adjusting parameters just to keep things ticking along.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
The CTEK Max 10, is a 10Amp charger, and as a battery charger its fine for charging., but as a power supply for flash programming on a D3 its not really powerful enough.
Pete
I have a little 3 amp CTEK US3300 that I used as a maintainer, but when fooling about with the CCF files, I hook up a 25 amp charger that likes the CaCa engine starting batteries. I watch the digital amp readout and it often displays 25 for a few seconds or longer. What I really wondered is how much more is the battery looking for - actually batteries, as I have a dual battery set up as well.
One of these times I will also hook up an old needle type voltmeter to the cigarette lighter or accessory plug inside just to watch the volts needle dance. I figure the new digital voltmeters have some sort of damping of the display, but the old needle ones, they can put on a good show.
The amount the needle dances around should give me an idea of just how effective my 25 amp battery charger is. The needle may sit fairly steady or it may dance around quite a bit as I think Land Rover recommends a 50 amp unit when using their T4.
When fooling with the CCF, I guess what bothers me most is hearing all the clicking of I guess various relays and the flashing of the four way flashers, the headlights, tail lights and whatever else seems to be momentarily activated - it is quite a sound and light show and the first time, was quite disturbing.
As a matter of practice, I turn off the heater and entertainment systems and keep a the drivers window rolled down and try to work thru the window as the less any system is activated, I think the better.
I used to get paranoid, (still do), just flashing the bios on a laptop computer. The instructions always say to have the laptop battery fully charged, the power supply plugged in and once started, no interruptions. The instructions also never seemed to guarantee the desired results either - a black art I gathered. Most often the flash worked, but the odd time ,,,,,2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
16th Feb 2014 4:17 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
bbyer, you are a man after my own heart.
The max I have seen when reprogramming is 33 amps but I think others have seen higher.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
analogue displays will be with us for a long time yet
[Quote]Can't beat a good old fashioned AVO for monitoring.[quote]
There is something about a moving needle that is so much more intuitive than digits flashing.
I note that both car and airplane instruments, while they may have a digital readout underneath, tend to be retaining an analogue display even if the "needle" is some sort of light source rather than being a physical metal or plastic arm.
I note watches are tending that way; an analogue display created electronically.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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